September 15, 2025
The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton marks the brand’s inaugural entry into open-worked timepieces, distinguished by its bespoke caliber developed in collaboration with AMT. This analysis will focus on the specific engineering, material, and dimensional attributes of this new model series.
Case Specifications and Finishing
The Chief Skeleton is built upon a 316L stainless steel, angular cushion-shaped case measuring 40mm in diameter, 11.76mm in thickness, and 47.59mm lug-to-lug. The 22mm lug width ensures a substantial presence. The architecture features recessed sides and a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, contributing to a modern technical aesthetic. A black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coated variant is also available, offering enhanced scratch resistance. Both iterations are rated for 100 meters of water resistance and are equipped with sapphire crystals on the front and the exhibition caseback.
Caliber FLS01 Engineering Details
At the core of the watch is the Favre Leuba Caliber FLS01, an exclusive automatic skeleton movement created with AMT, a specialized division of Sellita. It operates at a standard frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) and provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The movement’s design is intentionally symmetrical, with the balance wheel prominently positioned at the 6 o’clock location under a custom open-worked bridge. This construction not only provides structural integrity but also showcases the escapement, a critical component for timekeeping precision. The semi-exposed mainspring barrel on the upper half offers a visual indication of the power reserve’s state.
Advanced Materials and Components
Material selection prioritizes performance and legibility. The rhodium-plated hour markers and hands are treated with C1 X1 Super-LumiNova, which provides a high-contrast blue emission in low-light conditions. The movement bridges on the stainless steel model receive a rose gold finish, while the DLC model features black-chrome finished bridges for a cohesive, monochrome look. The watch is paired with a strap made from FKM rubber, a high-performance fluoroelastomer known for its durability and resistance to heat and chemicals. The integration of quick-release springbars allows for efficient strap changes without tools.
In conclusion, the Chief Skeleton is a technically robust offering. The decision to invest in a bespoke caliber from a reputable manufacturer like AMT, rather than modifying an existing off-the-shelf movement, underscores a commitment to engineering substance. The precise case dimensions, durable material choices, and purpose-built movement architecture position it as a noteworthy piece of modern watchmaking.
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